Phirni

The rice is ground to a powder first, so it sets smooth with no grains in it at all.

Vegetarian, but not vegan — contains dairy (whole milk).

Ingredients

• 80 g short-grain rice, soaked and ground, or rice flour
• 1 litre whole milk
• 120 g sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• a good pinch of saffron threads
• 2 teaspoons rose water
• 40 g almonds and pistachios, slivered
• dried rose petals, to serve

Method

1. THE RICE IS GROUND TO A POWDER FIRST, SO IT SETS SMOOTH WITH NO GRAINS IN IT AT ALL. Its article names the possibilities precisely: ground rice, rice flour or cornflour cooked in milk. That is the whole distinction from Kheer, as on its own page, which uses whole grains and is meant to be eaten off a spoon with texture in it. Powdered, the starch disperses completely and the pudding sets to something closer to a set custard -- which is why it is eaten chilled and in small bowls rather than ladled hot.
2. IF YOU GRIND YOUR OWN, SOAK IT FIRST AND GRIND IT COARSE. Thirty minutes in water, drained, then pulsed to the texture of semolina rather than to flour. Slightly gritty ground rice gives a better body than shop-bought rice flour, which can set gluey.
3. THE GROUND RICE IS SLAKED IN COLD MILK BEFORE IT MEETS THE HOT. Whisked into a few tablespoons of cold milk until smooth. Tipped dry into hot milk it seizes into lumps that no amount of whisking will clear.
4. IT IS STIRRED WITHOUT STOPPING FOR THE WHOLE TWENTY MINUTES. A powder thickens all at once and catches in seconds. This is the one milk pudding here that cannot be left.
5. IT IS TAKEN OFF LOOSER THAN YOU WANT IT. It sets considerably as it chills. Cooked to the consistency you want to serve, it will be stiff and claggy cold.
6. THE SAFFRON IS GROUND AND STEEPED IN A LITTLE WARM MILK. Twenty minutes, then stirred in near the end. Threads dropped in whole give streaks and leave most of the colour behind.
7. ROSE WATER GOES IN OFF THE HEAT. Its article names rose water among the aromatics, with cardamom and saffron. Added to a simmering pan it boils away.
8. IT IS SET IN CLAY BOWLS IF YOU HAVE THEM. Its article names them -- shikoras -- and they are not decoration: unglazed clay draws a little moisture out as it chills, which firms the surface and gives the faint earthy smell the dessert is known for. Ramekins work and do neither.

Our own recipe. This one was written for this site rather than taken from anywhere, so there is no source to point you at. The quantities and the order of the steps are choices, not the only way to do it.

Filed under India · All recipes